Madagascar: A Case of Vicious cycle between conservation and hunger

In 2009, several scientists from Stolk home Resilience Centre, under the leadership of Dr. Johan Rockstrom introduced the concept of Planetary Boundary, which defines unbreachable nine, quantified limit for the planet, for safe and sustainable living. (Ref: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Planetary_boundaries)

Planetary boundary model

In 2012, the Oxford University economist Kate Raworth, built upon the concept of planetary boundary and introduced the concept of Doughnut Economics, by incorporating twelve social blocks (Ref: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doughnut_(economic_model)).

Doughnut Economics

Both the model not just challenged the concept of traditional development and economics but also challenged the concept of exponential growth. And, in another way they challenged the traditional definition of sustainable development, which more often than not sounds like an oxymoron. The concept of United Nation’s Sustainable Development Goals (SDG) allowed trading off between various goals.

(Refer: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sustainable_Development_Goals)

To ensure zero hunger (Goal 2), we may need to prioritize decent work and economic growth (Goal 8), and to ensure that we may need to focus on industry, innovation, technology and infrastructure (Goal 9), and that may climate action (Goal 13), life below water (Goal 14) and life on land (Goal 15) to back-burner.

This is how the vicious cycle between conservation and hunger starts.

Based on a research paper, Socioeconomic impacts of small conserved sites on rural communities in Madagascar, by D. Rodríguez-Rodríguez et al, published in Environmental Development, “Madagascar is one of the most important global biodiversity hotspots, where high endemicity rates spatially coincide with rapid loss of natural habitats (Mittermeier et al., 2011; Ralimanana et al., 2022). Madagascar is also one of the least developed countries of the world, ranking 173 of 191 in the Human Development Index (UNDP, 2022). Poverty and lack of access to basic services is widespread in rural areas, where populations heavily depend on the collection of natural resources for their subsistence (World Bank,

2021). Whereas Madagascar’s biodiversity is mostly hosted by the variety of forest ecosystems present on the island (Goodman and Benstead, 2005), these ecosystems have been rapidly declining due to human activities in recent decades to cover just 15 % of the country’s terrestrial area in 2014 (Vieilledent et al., 2018). The major pressures that forests face are the expansion of cattle grazing (Waeber et al., 2015), pioneering slash-and-burn agriculture on the western dry deciduous forests (Vieilledent et al., 2020), shifting cultivation on the eastern moist evergreen forests (Zaehringer et al., 2015), charcoal production, timber collection and mining (Raik, 2007). In addition to habitat loss, biodiversity in Madagascar also faces other important pressures such as poaching and illegal trade of wildlife (Borgerson et al., 2016; Mandimbihasina et al., 2020). Current farming and wildlife exploitation practices help, however, to provide food security (Llopis et al., 2021; Borgerson et al., 2022) in one of the most food insecure countries in the world (EIU, 2022).”

This is the vicious cycle between conservation and basic survival of poor people, which is prominent in most of the developing countries. Now, on which side of it, the ecotourism plays its influencing role, is a good question to ask.

On the way to Ranomafana

We reached at our destination – Ranomafana national park at around 6:00 pm. And then did a night-walk on the road along the edge of the forest adjacent to the Andriamamovoka waterfalls, until 8:00 pm and then retired for the day when sudden gush of rain had halted us. However, we had already spotted Cryptic chameleon or blue-legged chameleon, Madagascar pimple-nose chameleon and elusive comet moth during our night-walk.

Madagascar pimple-nose chameleon

On 13th April, as usual at 7:30 am we headed towards Ranomafana national park and stayed inside the park up to 12:30 pm. The highlights of our sighting were Madagascar scops owl which was roosting on a dim light branch, golden bamboo lemur, ring-tailed vontsira or mongoose, and the most remarkable one from conservation point of view – the greater bamboo lemur (Hapalemur simus), also known as the broad-nosed bamboo lemur and the broad-nosed gentle lemur.

Greater bamboo lemur

The greater bamboo lemur, is one of the world’s most critically endangered primates, according to the IUCN Red List. Scientists believed that it was extinct, but a remnant population was discovered in 1986 (Wright, Pat (July 2008). “A Proposal from Greater Bamboo Lemur Conservation Project”. SavingSpecies. Retrieved 1 June 2012.). Since then, surveys of south- and central-eastern Madagascar have found about 500 individuals in 11 subpopulations. The home range of the species is likewise drastically reduced. The current range is less than 4 % of its historic distribution. The reason for the endangerment is climate change and human activities which depleted the primary food source (bamboo). This species of lemur is not capable of adapting to the rapidly changing habitat. Human activities and climate change have resulted in the depletion of populations and resulted in a few remaining patches of forest capable of supporting this species. The species is endangered by various anthropogenic activities such as slash and burn farming, mining, bamboo, and other logging, and slingshot hunting (Conniff, Richard (April 2006). “For the Love of Lemurs”. Smithsonian. 37 (1). Smithsonian Institution: 102–109.). As of October 2024, only 36 individuals are in captivity, world-wide (“Cotswold wildlife park successfully breeds endangered Madagascan lemur”. The Guardian. 20 October 2024. Retrieved 22 October 2024.).

The one we saw in Ranomafana during our exploration was an adult female and the only individual survived in that forest. According to Nandih, the local scientists were working on to find few other male individuals as her mating partners in order to conserve the species in that forest.

After lunch break on that day, we explored another side of the forest, the Voiparara Reserve from 3:45 pm to 4:45 pm. The addition to our list of lemurs was Milne-Edwards’s sifaka.

On 14th April, at around 7:00 am we started to proceed from wet zone to dry zone – towards Isalo national park. On the way we stopped by at Anja Forest at around 12:45 pm. The Anja Community Reserve is a woodland area and freshwater lake, situated at the base of a large cliff. Much of the reserve is dominated by fallen rocks and boulders and there are two small caves providing habitat for bats and owls. This reserve has much sheltered habitat in the pocket of forest that has established between the vast boulders. The reserve was created in 2001 with the support on the UNDP to help preserve the local environment and wildlife, and to provide additional employment and income to the local community. The reserve is home to the highest concentration of maki, or ring-tailed lemurs, in all of Madagascar. The people, who have a belief in not eating the maki, used to sell the maki to outsiders. However, after finding that 95% of makis in Madagascar are now gone, the people initiated the formation of a nature reserve, effectively establishing the world’s largest congregation site for makis. Due to its high biological, cultural, and natural importance, scholars have suggested the possibility of its inclusion in the UNESCO World Heritage List. (“Granite cliffs in the Anja Community Reserve near Ambalavao”. GettyImages.com. 6 October 2016. Retrieved 23 December 2017.).

Ring-tailed lemur

We saw plenty of ring-tailed lemur in Anja. And few more new birds such as olive bee-eater and Madagascar blue pigeon, and few more chameleons – Malagasy giant chameleon or Oustalet’s chameleon and Brookesia or Nosy Hara leaf chameleon. We had left that forest at around 1:30 pm and by that time we reached at our resort in Isalo, it was 8:30 pm. After dinner we did our customary night-walk within the resort campus located within Ranohira village. And we spotted Madagascar nightjar, fruit bat, Madagascar cat snake, and Malagasy hissing cockroach, various other amphibians, lizards and insects. The resort was also home of few radiated tortoise (Astrochelys radiata). Although this species is native to and most abundant in southern Madagascar, it can also be found in the rest of this island. It is a very long-lived species, with recorded lifespans of up to 188 years. These tortoises are classified as Critically Endangered by the IUCN, mainly because of the destruction of their habitat and poaching.

We were about to start the second phase of exploration – the dry zone exploration. According to many of our team members, in the previous zone, i.e., in wet zone, we did not see enough frog species we should have had. In one such conversation during our trip, Achyuthan tried to explain few possible reasons what might have caused that. According to him less monsoon due to climate change, and chytrid fungus were primarily responsible behind disappearance of frog. The chytrid fungus attacks the parts of a frog’s skin that have keratin in them. Since frogs use their skin in respiration, this makes it difficult for the frog to breathe. The fungus also damages the nervous system, affecting the frog’s behavior. Wet or muddy boots and tires, fishing, camping, gardening or frog-survey equipment are suspected to be contributing to the spread of the disease. Achyuthan also said, bushes are thick in rainforest of Madagascar due to absence of any large herbivores. Therefore, there was not much gap between big trees and that could be a reason for not having suitable habitat for frogs.

Jumping frogs

Researchers Franco Andreone, Mike Bungard and Karen Freeman in their book Threatened frogs of Madagascar, have mentioned, “the frogs of Madagascar suffer from a series of threats, including habitat alteration, deforestation, pollution and collection for the pet-trade.” According to them the biggest threat to Malagasy frogs is loss of habitat, either by deforestation or through the conversion of pristine rain forest into agricultural land. They have also mentioned, amphibians are experiencing a dramatic decline worldwide. Apart from habitat alteration, one of the major threats to frog populations is the spread of Batrachochytrium dendrobatidis, a fungus that attacks only amphibians, commonly called “Bd” and can result in a disease called chytridiomycosis. The origin of this fungus is not well known, but it has been found in many parts of the world, in both altered and pristine environments. Amphibians as bush-meat cited as another probable reason. Some species of Malagasy frogs are collected by local people for food, particularly large species of the genus Mantidactylus, such as M. guttulatus in central-eastern Madagascar, and Boehmantis microtympanum from the south-east. Another reason mentioned by them was the pet trade. Between 1996 and 2002 over 140 million amphibians were traded worldwide. In 1998 alone over 31000 golden mantellas (Mantella aurantiaca) were exported from Madagascar for the global pet trade. Species most commonly traded are green mantellas (Mantella viridis), harlequin mantella (Mantella cowani), the Baron’s mantella (Mantella baroni) and the expected mantella (Mantella expectata). Golden mantellas (Mantella aurantiaca) and tomato frogs (Dyscophus spp.) are particularly prized by collectors. Because they are active in the daytime and are brightly coloured, they are not only easy to catch but are also popular pets.

Although, there was no specific mention of reduced monsoon due to climate change as reason of disappearance of Malagasy frogs in the research done by Franco Andreone, Mike Bungard and Karen Freeman. However, climate change is projected to lead to an increase in temperatures for the entire island of Madagascar in the 21st century (Tadross, Mark; Randriamarolaza, Luc; Zo Rabefitia, Zo; Ki Yip, Zheng (February 2008). “Climate change in Madagascar; recent past and future”). Climate change is a significant threat to Madagascar’s environment and people. Climate change has raised temperatures, made the dry season longer and has resulted in more intense tropical storms. The country’s unique ecosystems, animal and plant life are being impacted.

Isalo national park

With this realization we started our dry zone exploration on 15th April at Isalo National Park. It continued 8:30 am to 12:30 pm. In scorching heat, walking through rocky terrain with no canopy cover not only made our exploration harder but also reminded the real time effect of climate change. Isalo is a sandstone landscape that has been dissected by wind and water erosion into rocky outcrops, plateaus, extensive plains and up to 200 m (660 ft) deep canyons. There are permanent rivers and streams as well as many seasonal watercourses. Elevation varies between 510 and 1,268 m (1,673 and 4,160 ft). Isalo is primarily within the dry deciduous forest ecoregion, an ecoregion in which natural vegetation has been reduced by almost 40% of its original extent.

Grey headed love birds

During our exploration in Isalo, we saw three more new bird species – Madagascar munia, grey headed love birds and Madagascar lark. Among reptiles the interesting observations were Malagasy iguanian lizards, and Jeweled chameleon or Campan’s chameleon or the Madagascar forest chameleon. However, as always, we were fascinated by adding one more lemur species in our list – Verreaux’s sifaka or the white sifaka.

Verreaux’s sifaka

On 16th April, we started our journey to move further towards west-coast of the country. Started at 7:30 am we reached the coastal town Tulear or Toliara at around 8:30 pm. On the way we visited Zombitse National Park between 9:00 am and 12:00 pm. The main landscapes found in the park are forests, woodlands, open grasslands and there are also some limited wetland areas. The opening sightings in the park were a huge hog-nosed snake and then a Standing’s Day gecko. Some mention worthy bird species were lesser varsa parrot, Madagascar blue Vanga, and Madagascar black kite. And of course, Hubbard’s sportive lemur (Zombitse sportive).

Zombitse sportive lemur

The last exploration was in the forest of iconic baobab trees on 17th April in Reniala Reserve of spiny forest between 6:00 am and 9:00 am. Reniala (meaning baobab in Malagasy) Private Reserve is a small 45-ha protected area less than 1km from the Mozambique Channel near the village of Ifaty-Mangily. The bizarre spiny forest (or spiny thicket) is one of the oddest and most unique habitats on the planet. Reniala is a small community-managed reserve of only 45 ha, but is a properly protected portion of spiny forest crowded with species found nowhere else on earth. It hosts more than 2,000 plant species, 95% of which are endemic to this rare habitat, including a whole plant family, the alien-like octopus trees (Didieraceae).

Iconic baobab in Reniala Reserve of spiny forest

Along the reserve’s botanical trail, we came across some of the most spectacular and oldest baobabs in Madagascar (there was a giant baobab of 12.5 m diameter). It is also a bird sanctuary and early morning exploration generally creates opportunity to sight some of Madagascar’s most sought-after endemic avian species. We could also see Madagascar cuckoo, Namaqua dove, Malagasy Harrier, green capped coua, and the elusive long tailed ground roller.

long-tailed ground roller

During our 11 days exploration starting from North-East part to South-West part of the country, in 16 different ecotourism destinations, we spotted and identified around 39 species of birds, 18 species of mammals (including 16 species of lemur), 25 species of reptiles, 12 species of amphibians, and 14 species of insects. But it was just scratching the surface.

“I Like to Move It”

As mentioned in the portal of Convention on Biological Diversity, Madagascar is a megadiverse country with a high concentration of endemic species. Its ecosystems include many types of forests, savannah, steppes, rivers, lakes, wetlands, mangroves, drylands and reefs. Currently, these unique ecosystems are home to approximately 12,000 species of vascular plants (96% endemic), 586 species of ferns (45% endemic), 194 species of palms (97% endemic), 1000 species of orchids (85% endemic), 389 species of reptiles (90% endemic), 278 species of amphibians (100% endemic), 282 species of birds (37% endemic), 159 species of fish (66% endemic), 104 species and subspecies of lemurs (100% endemic), 60 species of non-flying small mammals (92% endemic), 43 species of bats (73% endemic) and 13 species of carnivore (77% endemic).

Between 7th and 17th April of 2025, I explored some part of Madagascar including 16 various ecotourism destinations in wet and dry zone of the country. As per One Earth portal, the Madagascar bioregion, part of the Madagascar and Eastern Afrotropics subrealm located in the Afrotropics realm, is separated from the African continent by the Mozambique Channel dominated by humid tropical forests in the east, drylands in the south, and dry forests in the north. The bioregion contains eight ecoregions—Madagascar Humid Forests, Madagascar Subhumid Forests, Madagascar Dry Deciduous Forests, Madagascar Ericoid Thickets, Ile Europa and Bassas Da India Xeric Scrub, Madagascar Spiny Thickets, Madagascar Succulent Woodlands, and Madagascar Mangroves — with a total land area of more than 59 million hectares, making it the fourth largest island in the world.

Aerial view of Madagascar

Out of these eight ecoregions, my exploration covered four ecoregions such as Madagascar subhumid forests, Madagascar humid forests – together in general term called as wet zone and Madagascar succulent woodlands and Madagascar spiny thickets – together in general term called as dry zone.

Exploration Map between 7th and 17th April 2025

I reached Madagascar on 6th April afternoon after change of three flights, from Delhi to Mumbai and then to Adis Ababa and finally to Antananarivo, the capital of Madagascar, or commonly known as Tana. In the morning of 7th April with my local guide John Razafindrakoto from Get Your Guide, after a 65 km of road drive through country side which often turned-out as bumpy ride with multiple off roading, I reached at Mantasoa Lake. As per original schedule we were supposed to start at 7 am, but due to miscommunication between Get Your Guide and John we could eventually start at 9:30 am. In order to explain reason behind dusty and broken condition of road, on the way to Mantasoa, John was telling me, how the current Government is indifferent about infrastructure development in Madagascar. Madagascar’s overall poor infrastructure is negatively affecting its economic growth and development opportunities. While 70 % of primary roads are in good condition, about two-thirds of secondary and tertiary roads are estimated to be in poor condition (as per World Bank report, 2018). In 2018, the World Food Programme and the Global Logistics Cluster classified 64 % of roads in Madagascar as in poor driving condition, 28 % in average condition, and 10 % in good condition; seven-in-ten of the primary roads fall into the latter-most category, which is defined as being navigable throughout all seasons of the year. As natural gravel is not regularly available on the island of Madagascar, many roads are composed of sand lined with crushed stone, (de O.S. Horta, Jose Carlos; Traverso, Carlo R. (1991). “Deterioration and rehabilitation of earth roads in Madagascar”).

Lake Mantasoa

Lake Mantasoa is a large artificial lake with a surface area of 20.05 km2, created by the Mantasoa Dam on the Varahina river (an affluent of the Ikopa) in the municipality of Mantasoa, Analamanga region of Madagascar. It provides immediate irrigation for Betsimitatatra paddies in Analamanga and tabbed water for the capital Antananarivo. The water temperature reaches up to between 13–22 degrees in winter. The lake’s lack of basal microfauna and ferruginous soil provides clear water. While entering the lake area I had my first sighting of Malagasy kingfisher and African stonechat. Although my first sighting of endemic birds of Madagascar had happened in the backyard of San Cristobol Hotel near Tana airport, where I stayed for couple of days. Those were red fody or Madagascar fody and Madagascar wagtail. While crossing the lake on a boat to reach the Nosy Soa park we saw a flock of White-faced whistling duck. Approximately ten-fifteen minutes of boat ride took us to Nosy Soa Park which is a naturalized zoological garden on an island half way along the Great Lake of Mantasoa. Built on an island of one kilometer in circumference in the heart of the lake, the private reserve of Nosy Soa has for main objective the reconstitution of a natural space too often ravaged by human. The fauna and flora have been successfully reintroduced since 2002, transforming the place into a very pleasant zoological garden with an educational vocation. Five species of lemur such as ring-tailed, Coquerel’s sifaka, black and white ruffed, Eastern bamboo and common brown lemur – which were rescued from forest and some of them were bred in captivity could be easily spotted around the park. I also got so see fascinating O’Shaughnessy’s chameleon and giant hog-nosed snake, poisonous Mantella and tomato frogs. Of course, everything was in semi-wild condition kept within a naturally created and anthropogenically transformed habitat.

Malachite Kingfisher

After all these experiences, again after a long drive through bad road, I reached at my hotel at around 7:30 pm. By that time some of our exploration team members had already arrived who were also staying in same hotel. Our main exploration was supposed to start from 9th April. I reached couple of days earlier to see few more ecotourism destinations as it was my first trip to Madagascar and only second to Africa. The exploration was organized by Bangalore based ecotourism and wildlife photography company Darter Photography in collaboration with local Madagascar based ecotour company Cactus Tour. Therefore, my good friend and CEO of Darter Photography, M.V. Shreeram was leading the exploration assisted by a PhD scholar in evolutionary biology and herpetologist Achyuthan Srikanthan. The retired Chief Naturalist of Karnataka’s Jungle Lodge Resort group (JLR), Karthikeyan Srinivasan was also part of that group.

On 8th April morning at 7:30 am, Shreeram, Achyuthan, Karthikeyan and I went for another exploration before our main exploration had started. Located in the heart of Antananarivo, the Tsarasaotra park is known for its 14 species and subspecies of endemic and threatened waterbirds. As the first private Ramsar site in Madagascar, it offers a glimpse into the richness of Malagasy avifauna. The Site consists of a lake of around ten hectares, with an islet, flood zones and wooded edge. The lake is surrounded by eucalyptus and camphor trees, as well as Juncus and Cyperus reeds. It plays an extremely important role in providing a refuge and nesting site amid the urban environment to waterbirds such as herons and ducks. Particularly during the hunting season, the Site is key to the survival of 14 threatened waterbird species and subspecies endemic to Madagascar. It is the only known site on the Malagasy highlands to host the endangered Madagascar pond heron (Ardeola idae), and it is also home to the endangered Meller’s duck (Anas melleri) and the vulnerable Madagascar grebe (Tachybaptus pelzelnii). The lake is privately owned, and a management plan is not yet available to address the eutrophication and erosion problems that are reducing the lake’s surface area and degrading its water quality.

Day gecko

During our three hours of exploration, there we spotted various bird species including black heron, red and blue billed teal, Malagasy white eye, Madagascar hoopoe etc. Some phenomenal reptile sightings were Madagascar day gecko and Lined day gecko.

Our actual exploration started from 9th April, when we started for Andasibe at around 8:30 am. We were 8 people from India, and joined by our local Malagasy nature guide from Cactus Tour – Nandih. We reached at Andasibe at around 1:30 pm. Then after lunch we explored VOIMMA National Park until 5 pm. Then after a quick break and checking in hotel we did a couple of hours of night walk in the park between 6 pm and 8 pm.

VOI M.M.A (Vondron’Olona Miaro Mitia Ala, meaning “the villagers who love and protect the forest” is a community-managed reserve located in Andasibe, about 1.5 km from the Analamazaotra National Park, in the Andasibe region of Madagascar. Created in 2012 by local villagers, this initiative aims to offer a community-based alternative to the nearby national park, while promoting ecotourism and the conservation of primary forest. In short, VOI M.M.A is another forested area in the Andasibe region, managed entirely by the local community and adjacent to the national park. The reserve covers about 0.4 km² of protected primary forest. It is managed by the villagers, and the income generated helps fund community projects such as access to clean water and support for the local health center. The park is well known for sightings of the indri-indri, the largest of all lemurs, but visitors can also encounter the diademed sifaka, the woolly lemur, various frog species (such as Boophis pyrrhus and Boophis viridis), chameleons (Furcifer willsii, Calumma parsonii), geckos (including the famous Uroplatus phantasticus), and unique insects like the giraffe weevil. The flora is just as impressive — a dense, untouched primary forest perfect for nature lovers and botany enthusiasts.

Largest living Lemur – Indri

Moment, we entered into the forest during afternoon exploration, we spotted Madagascar paradise flycatcher. Other bird species spotted were Speactacled tetraka, Souimanga sunbird, Nelicourvi weaver etc. But of course, the highlight of the day was sighting of largest species of lemur survived in wild – Indri lemur. Besides that, we also saw common brown lemur. Other highlights were spotting of Parson’s chameleon, mossy leaf-tailed gecko and satanic Leaf-tailed Gecko (Uroplatus phantasticus). Among many insects we spotted there during afternoon and night exploration, the mention worthy was colorful giraffe necked weevil. During night exploration, one more lemur species were added in our lemur sighting list – the mouse lemur.

Next day, on 10th April, our exploration area was Analamazaotra National Park, from 8 am to 12:30 pm. The park is in the eastern portion of Madagascar’s Central Highlands. The neighbouring Analamazaotra Forest Station is a local reforestation effort. It adjoins Andasibe-Mantadia National Park to the north. The reserve is situated in the region Alaotra-Mangoro, close to Moramanga and Andasibe. There we had our first encounter with snakes of Madagascar – Pseudoxyrhophus snake, Fandrefiala (Ithycyphus miniatus), and Malagasy rat snake. The new lemur species added in list was Diademed sifaka.

Person’s chameleon

After lunch break the next destination of the day was lemur’s island, which was similar to Nosy Soa but wilder and bigger. I said wilder because of its high canopy tree and less human intervention. Lemur island is a sanctuary for injured or unwanted pet lemurs. A wide water channel surrounds the island for their own safety. We crossed the channel in a plastic kayak, quickest kayak trip I ever did. One mention worthy bird species immediately after entering into the park we spotted was cuckoo roller. The lemur species we got to see there were black and white ruffed, red ruffed, red-bellied lemur and Eastern grey bamboo lemur.

That day we did night walk at Mitsinjo reserve near Analamazaotra, from 6 pm to 8 pm. Heterixalus madagascariensis or the blue back reed frog, Boophis Pyrrhus, golden mantella (Mantella aurantiaca), and Aglyptodactylus madagascariensis or the Madagascar jumping frog were some of the amphibians we saw there. First time we saw woolly lemur during our night walk. the Mitsinjo Reserve is a community-managed protected area, situated right next to the entrance of the Analamazaotra-Andasibe National Park. It is managed by the Mitsinjo Association, a community-based organization founded in 1999 by local residents with the goal of protecting the surrounding rainforest and wetlands. According to available information, the association also manages the Analamazaotra Forest Station independently of the national park, in collaboration with local communities. The Malagasy word Mitsinjo means looking ahead or planning the future.

Diademed sifaka.

Next day, 11th April was all about long road trip from Andasibe to Antsirabe, via Tana. We started at 7:30 am and reached in hour hotel at 8:30 pm. In Madagascar, Antsirabe is known for its relatively cool climate (like the rest of the central region), its industry and the high concentration of pulled rickshaws or Pousse-Pousse. That reminded us about Eastern Indian city Calcutta and neighboring country Bangladesh. Antsirabe attracts around 30,000 tourists a year. After a night halt in Antsirabe next day morning we headed for Ranomafana National Park. We started at 7:30 am and on the way we stopped by at Manandona community forest by the river Manandona, at around late afternoon. It is located at about 23 km south of Antsirabe on the RN 7, a primary highway in Madagascar running 980 km from the capital Antananarivo to Tulear at the South-West coast of the country. The Manandona river flows by this town. Highest Point of the commune is the Mont Ibity with 2250m, which is a tourism attraction point for local people and a customary stoppage cum bio break point for foreigner tourists.

The majority – 90% of the population of the commune are farmers, while an additional 10% receives their livelihood from raising livestock. As they know, international tourists would stop at this point therefore, they were prepared to welcome them in an unusual way. Tourists correlate Madagascar with its diversified, colorful and unusual looking chameleons. When we arrived at that point and got down from our twelve-seater traveler, we were astonished to see around 10-15 kinds with few adult male and female locals were waiting for us, holding twigs in their hands. All the twigs had at least one chameleon each, of different color. They were providing photo opportunities to foreigners in exchange of some money. Based on the conversation Nandih had with those kids and their adult companions, all those chameleons were captured from their farming lands and kept as pet. They keep them as long as these reptiles are healthy enough to remain as photography subjects and then leave them in farm or at roadside to die. And this cycle continues for ever to support their desperate effort to survive hunger and poverty. This is how human hunger, and poverty can accelerate extinction of other non-human species. Achyuthan identified most of those colorful chameleons were Calumma glawi, already declared as Endangered species by IUCN.