Ecotourism and Climate Change

My ecotourism and photography adventures in the terai region of India were affected by unpredictable weather conditions. I witnessed that supporting the local community in various tiger reserves in terai of Nepal, is a way to become resilient to climate crisis. The nation state of Bhutan by integrating Buddhist philosophy of mindfulness and sustainability with core principles of deep ecology, has conquered climate crisis in ecotourism. And they did so, I noticed, without depending upon a single species, like the tiger.

In December 2020 I travelled to Dudhwa tiger reserve of Indian Terai and then in April 2023 I was in Terai of Nepal. Year later I explored across length and breadth of Bhutan. All these enlightened me role of ecotourism as a climate change resilient activity.

Dudhwa National Park is a national park in the Terai belt of marshy grasslands in northern Uttar Pradesh, India. It stretches over an area of 490.3 km2 (189.3 sq mi), with a buffer zone of 190 km2 (73 sq mi). It is part of the Dudhwa Tiger Reserve in the Kheri and Lakhimpur districts.

The area of today’s Dudhwa National Park was established in 1958 as a wildlife sanctuary for swamp deer. It was notified as a national park in January 1977 thanks to the efforts of Billy Arjan Singh.[3][failed verification] In 1987, Dudhwa National Park together with Kishanpur Wildlife Sanctuary and Katarniaghat Wildlife Sanctuary was declared a tiger reserve named Dudhwa Tiger Reserve.

Forest of Dudhwa in early morning mist

Parsa National Park is a national park in the Terai of south-central Nepal covering an area of 627.39 km2 (242.24 sq mi) in the ParsaMakwanpur and Bara Districts and ranging in elevation from 435 to 950 m (1,427 to 3,117 ft) in the Sivalik Hills. It was established as a wildlife reserve in 1984 and received national park status in 2017. It is surrounded by a buffer zone since 2005 with an area of 285.3 km2 (110.2 sq mi). In 2015, the protected area was further extended by 49 sq mi (128 km2).

A community which protects part of Parsa tiger reserve

Chitwan National Park is the first national park of Nepal. It was established in 1973 as the Royal Chitwan National Park and was granted the status of a World Heritage Site in 1984. It covers an area of 952.63 km2 (367.81 sq mi) in the Terai of south-central Nepal. It ranges in elevation from about 100 m (330 ft) in the river valleys to 815 m (2,674 ft) in the Sivalik Hills.

Tiger sighting at Chitwan

Bardiya National Park is a protected area in Nepal that was established in 1988 as Royal Bardia National Park. Covering an area of 968 km2 (374 sq mi) it is the largest and most undisturbed national park in Nepal’s Terai, adjoining the eastern bank of the Karnali River and bisected by the Babai River in the Bardiya District. Its northern limits are demarcated by the crest of the Siwalik Hills. The NepalgunjSurkhet highway partly forms the southern boundary, but seriously disrupts the protected area. Natural boundaries for human settlements are formed in the west by the Geruwa, a branch of the Karnali River, and in the southeast by the Babai River. Together with the neighboring Banke National Park, the coherent protected area of 1,437 km2 (555 sq mi) represents the Tiger Conservation Unit (TCU) Bardia-Banke that extends over 2,231 km2 (861 sq mi) of alluvial grasslands and subtropical moist deciduous forests.

Barasingha at Bardia

The Kingdom of Bhutan is a small, landlocked nation nestled in the southern slopes of the Eastern Himalaya. To its north lies the Tibet Autonomous Region of China and to the west, south and east lies the Indian states of Sikkim, Bengal, Assam and Arunachal Pradesh.

The terrain is some of the most rugged in the world, characterised by huge variations in altitude. Within the 150 miles between the southern and northern borders, Bhutan’s elevation rises from 150 to more than 7,500 metres. This great geographical diversity combined with equally diverse climate conditions contributes to Bhutan’s outstanding range of biodiversity and ecosystems.

The tiger, one-horned rhinogolden langurclouded leopardhispid hare and the sloth bear live in the lush tropical lowland and hardwood forests in the south. In the temperate zone, grey langurtigerleopardgoral and serow are found in mixed conifer, broadleaf and pine forests. Fruit bearing trees and bamboo provide habitat for the Himalayan black bearred panda, squirrel, sambar, wild pig and barking deer. The alpine habitats of the great Himalayan range in the north are home to the snow leopardblue sheepmarmot, antelope and Himalayan musk deer.

As of 2017 there are 4567 known species of flower plants and another 709 species of ferns and mosses. Regarding vertebrates, there are 736 species of birds, 129 species of mammals and 158 species of amphibians and reptiles.

In Bhutan forest cover is around 71% of the total land area, equivalent to 2,725,080 hectares (ha) of forest in 2020, up from 2,506,720 hectares (ha) in 1990. In 2020, naturally regenerating forest covered 2,704,260 hectares (ha) and planted forest covered 20,820 hectares (ha). Of the naturally regenerating forest 15% was reported to be primary forest (consisting of native tree species with no clearly visible indications of human activity) and around 41% of the forest area was found within protected areas. For the year 2015, 100% of the forest area was reported to be under public ownership.

White bellied heron in Bhutan
Philosophy of Buddhism influences ecotourism in Bhutan

How ecotourism can be used as effective tool to combat climate change read my book

OECM based Ecotourism

Other effective area-based conservation measures‘ (OECMs) are areas that are achieving the long term and effective in-situ conservation of biodiversity outside of protected areas.

In my opinion nature related activities cannot be considered as mere supplementary pursuits, based on ecotourism in a few glorified destinations, visited by most ecotourists and photographers. I have explored and witnessed the ecotourism and photography potential in various natural areas in northeast hills of India, that are located outside protected areas but are home to endangered and ecologically important species. Thus, the next dimension of inclusive ecotourism, the I reckon, is exploring and understanding these ‘other’ areas.

I have been part of ecotourism based on OECM in the northeast hills and Gangetic plane tiger habitats comprising Buxa, Manas, Orang and Kaziranga.

Buxa Tiger Reserve is a tiger reserve and national park in northern West BengalIndia, covering an area of 760 km2 (290 sq mi). It ranges in elevation from 60 m (200 ft) in the Gangetic Plains to 1,750 m (5,740 ft) bordering the Himalayas in the north. At least 284 bird species inhabit the reserve. Mammals present include Asian elephantgaurSambar deerclouded leopardIndian leopard, and Asian golden cat. The Bengal tiger is also present but rarely seen; as of 2005, Buxa Tiger Reserve had only one resident tiger.

A Burmese python in Buxa tiger reserve

Manas National Park is a national parkProject Tiger reserve, and an elephant reserve in Assam, India. Located in the Himalayan foothills, it borders the Royal Manas National Park in Bhutan. The park is known for its rare and endangered endemic wildlife such as the Assam roofed turtlehispid haregolden langur, and pygmy hog. It also hosts the only known population of pygmy hogs in the world. Manas is also famous for its population of the wild water buffalo. Because of its exceptional biodiversity, scenery, and variety of habitats, Manas National Park is a biosphere reserve and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Capped langur in Manas

Orang National Park is a national park in India located on the northern bank of the Brahmaputra River in the Darrang and Sonitpur districts of Assam. It covers an area of 79.28 km2 (30.61 sq mi). It was established as a sanctuary in 1985 and declared a national park on 13 April 1999. It is rich in flora and fauna, including great Indian rhinocerospygmy hogAsian elephantwild water buffalo and the Bengal tiger. It is the only stronghold of the rhinoceros on the north bank of the Brahmaputra.

One horned rhino in Orang

Kaziranga National Park is a national park in the GolaghatSonitpurBiswanath and Nagaon districts of the state of Assam, India. KNP has 5 ranges. The park, which hosts two-thirds of the world’s Indian rhinoceroses, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. According to a March 2018 census conducted jointly by the Forest Department of the Government of Assam and some recognized wildlife NGOs, the rhino population in Kaziranga National Park is 2,613. It comprises 1,641 adult rhinos and 385 calves.

In 2015, the rhino population stood at 2,401. Kaziranga National Park was declared a Tiger Reserve in 2006. The park is home to large breeding populations of elephantswild water buffalo, and swamp deer. Kaziranga is recognized as an Important Bird Area by BirdLife International for conservation of avifaunal species which refers as the birds or types of birds found in a specific region, period, or environment. When compared with other protected areas in India, Kaziranga has achieved notable success in wildlife conservation. Located on the edge of the Eastern Himalaya biodiversity hotspot, the park combines high species diversity and visibility.

Kaziranga is a vast expanse of tall elephant grassmarshland, and dense tropical moist broadleaf forests, criss-crossed by four major rivers, including the Brahmaputra, and the park includes numerous small bodies of water. Kaziranga has been the theme of several books, songs, and documentaries. The park celebrated its centennial in 2005 after its establishment in 1905 as a reserve forest.

Indo-Chinese roller in Kaziranga

To know, how the ecotourism based on OECM contributes to inclusive ecotourism read Pseudo Ecotourism in the Shadow of the Bengal Tiger.

The unexplored ecological wonder of North-East Hill landscape – Dehing Patkai

North-East landscape of India comprises the states of Arunachal Pradesh, Assam, Manipur, Mizoram, Nagaland, Sikkim, Tripura, and hilly districts of northern West Bengal. This landscape can be further classified as North Bengal Dooars, Brahmaputra flood plains, and North-East hill region. It is situated alongside international borders with Nepal, Bhutan, People’s Republic of China (China occupied Tibet), Myanmar, and Bangladesh, and connected to peninsular India through a narrow strategic stretch, Siliguri Corridor. As the landscape shares 90% of its boundary with neighbouring countries, it is one of the most important geo-strategic locations of the country. This landscape also is home to more than 200 ethnic and indigenous communities. Other than the cultural plurality, North-East and Brahmaputra flood plains landscape is diverse with natural resources.

Since the landscape shares porous international borders in many parts with neighbouring Southeast Asian countries, it is comparatively easy for poachers to operate in this landscape. In the recent past, the skin and body parts of two tigers were seized from Dibang Valley in Arunachal Pradesh and Itakhola on the Assam-Arunachal Pradesh border. Direct exploitation of tigers from this already low abundant population, coupled with habitat fragmentation and biotic pressure, could eventually deplete the tiger population in this landscape. Other than rapid development causing habitat fragmentation and the poaching of wild tigers and prey, the invasion of weeds in the natural habitat is a severe threat to this landscape.

Grey peacock pheasant at Dehing Patkai

Between 12th and 18th November of 2023, I did intense biodiversity exploration in around 400 km stretch consisting of Diban camp of Namdapha and its surrounding areas including Haldibari, Highiand and Kamala Valley camp, Dheing Patkai National Park and Maguri beel as well as adjacent grasslands of Dibru Saikhowa National Park. Around 2:30 PM, we started our journey from Dibrugarh airport and reached at our homestay in Digboi at 6:00 PM. I was with a reputed bird watching guide of North-East, named Palash Phukan. I was also joined by another experienced bird photographer from Pune, named Suyog Ghodke.

Dehing Patkai exploration team

As per schedule, after reaching close to our homestay in Digboi, we went to look for Oriental Bay owl in the forest of Dehing. Dehing Patkai National Park harbours the largest stretch of lowland rainforests in India. The rainforest stretches for more than 575 km2 in the districts of Dibrugarh, Tinsukia and Charaideo. The forest further spreads over in the Tirap and Changlang districts of Arunachal Pradesh. The Wildlife Sanctuary was also declared as Dehing Patkai Elephant Reserve under Project Elephant. After reaching at a particular patch of dense forest, which was apparently not allowed to be explored on foot, Palsh started playing call of bay owl. Within few seconds the bird started responding to that call from a nearby tree. However, before spotting the bird, Palsh’s torch light caressed through an elephant like object. In the darkness it was not possible to distinguish that object clearly from the large tree trunks in background. Nevertheless, an elephant head like curvature was vaguely noticed in torchlight.

That unclear vision mixed with fear and imagination was enough to make all of us run for our dear life and get inside the car parked around 100-200 meters away from the forest patch. Elephant is the main reason why exploring Dehing’s forest in foot in darkness is not allowed.

Ashy headed green pigeon at Dehing

Next day, we started at 6:00 AM and continued till lunch break at 1:30 PM. It was all bush walking, ascending, and descending through dense foliage of Dehing Patkai rainforest. Within an hour of our morning exploration, we got to see a male grey peacock pheasant. When we were busy in shooting that bird from quite proximity, our driver Guru sent an SOS of elephant alert through walkie-talkie to Palash. He saw a male elephant standing behind our car which was parked on the forest path and upon noticing Guru it entered deep forest, where we were busy with peacock-pheasant. Therefore, another run for the life for us and that was bit difficult and far scarier than the previous one. That time the sighting of elephant was real and forest path was more hostile because of thorny bush, thick foliage, and muddy path.

Rufus throated fulvetta at Dehing

Somehow, we came out of dense forest and reached where our car was parked. It was time for breakfast after few hours of intense bird-walk. Rest of the morning we did easy to moderate hike in the forest and spotted various birds which were first in life sighting for me, such as grey peacock-pheasant, pale capped pigeon, rufus throated fulvetta, chestnut backed laughing thrush, silver breasted broadbill, ashy headed green pigeon, blue-winged leaf bird, red headed trogon, and white spectacled warbler.

Grey-lored broadbill at Dehing

The most exciting exploration in Dehing happened on that afternoon. After a sudden heavy shower, the forest path was muddy and slippery. Therefore, ascending and descending on steep slope became quite difficult. After couple of hours’ physical effort, surviving fear of fall risks, and few actual falls on forest path we reached near a pond and were delighted by a sighting which we would like to cherish for ever. It was a male white-winged wood duck, the state bird of Assam. Decaled as Endangered by IUCN, historically, the white-winged duck was widely distributed from North-Eastern India and Bangladesh, throughout South-East Asia to Java and Sumatra. It is now extinct in Java. In India, the duck is found only in the North-Eastern part of the country, with the main concentration in Eastern Assam and adjacent areas of Arunachal Pradesh. However, in 2002 it had a population of only 800, with about 200 in Laos, Thailand, Vietnam, and Cambodia, 150 on Sumatra, notably in Way Kambas National Park and 450 in India, Bangladesh, and Myanmar. Due to ongoing habitat loss, a small population size, and because this duck is hunted for food, eggs and pets, the white-winged duck is evaluated as Endangered on the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species. In India, the key protected areas for the white-winged duck are Dibru-Saikhowa National Park, Dehing-Patkai Wildlife Sanctuary, Nameri National Park and Namdapha National Park. The white-winged duck occurs in dense tropical evergreen forests, near rivers and swamps.

The elusive white winged wood duck at Dehing – state bird of Assam

Dehing-Patkai as a potential wildlife sanctuary was identified in late 1980s during a primate survey as “Upper Dehing Wildlife Sanctuary”. Subsequently during a study on white-winged wood duck in early 1990s, it was discovered as a globally important site for this duck and recommended to be upgraded to “Upper Dehing National Park”.

After white-winged wood duck sighting for nearly two hours we again went for bay owl when it was dark. But fear of elephant in mind did not let Palash and us to focus on that bird. Therefore, we called it a day and returned to our homestay.

A male red headed trogon at the exit gate of Dehing Patkai National Park

Our next destination was Namdapha Tiger Reserve of Arunachal Pradesh!